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Cosmonaut in Kretchet Lunar Suit

By Dave Allen

Like other offerings from EVA Models I have seen, the quality of this kit is first-rate. The small scale of this kit may lead you to believe that detail and realism will be lacking, but this is definitely NOT the case with any EVA Models products I have seen. Since EVA Models uses vacuum casting, the pieces are free of air bubbles, and only minor flash existing between the legs of the figure. The fit of this kit is superb, and no filling was required at the joints.

I started by cutting all resin pieces free from the gates using a fine-tooth razor saw, being careful not to cut too close to the model piece. Next, using a sharp X-acto knife (and wearing eye protection) I carefully cut away any gate material left behind. A light sanding with extra-fine grit sandpaper at the points where they will be glued together improves both the fit and the strength of the bond once glued. Once satisfied with the parts fit, I glued the feet and arms to the body of the figure using Zap-A-Gap CA. To avoid applying too much glue, I drop a little glue onto a sheet of aluminum foil and then pick up a little with a toothpick and apply it to the joint. I don't normally use an accelerant for small resin kits because a CA glue bonds very quickly and tightly to properly prepared resin. The parts fit is so good that the only filler needed at the joints is provided by an extra dab or two of glue which wicks nicely into the gaps and fills them evenly.

I should mention at this point that the only remaining resin part (not including the parts for the scoop which I didn't plan to use) was the control pack that goes on the chest of the figure. I did not glue the control pack to the figure at this point, but rather left it separate so that I could paint the details on the surface of the pack that faces the cosmonaut. After allowing an hour or so for the glue to set, I gave the assembled figure and the control pack a light scrubbing with a soft-bristled toothbrush, using a warm solution of water and dishwashing liquid soap (the directions claim this is not necessary, but I did it anyway). Next, I temporarily affixed both the figure and the control pack to a craft stick using small drops of white glue. I like to glue two craft sticks together, forming a cross, to provide a more stable platform for priming and painting the figure. After allowing this temporary assembly to dry overnight, I gave both the figure and the control pack a light coat of Krylon sandable white primer. After allowing several hours for this to dry, I spray painted both with Testors Flat White paint. It is possible to use only primer, but I find that it takes a heavier coat of primer to get the same coverage, so I prefer the light coat of primer and an additional coat of flat white. When this had dried, I washed both the figure and the control pack with a blue-gray wash, being very careful to get even coverage. I left this dry overnight and then drybrushed highlights of the figure (top of the helmet, arms, etc.) with Tamiya Flat White. I added shadows between the legs and under the arms using white painted tinted with a bit of blue and gray. At this point I gave the entire model an overcoat of Testors Dullcoat and set it aside to dry.

I used a Windsor-Newton Series 7 size 0 brush to carefully paint the trim running along the seam of the arms and legs of the suit. I used Tamiya Flat Red paint and then gently dry-brushed highlights with red mixed with a bit of yellow. I used Tamiya Gold to paint the visor, and a flat field gray on the cuffs of the sleeves and legs. I mixed Testors Model Master Flat Sea Blue with enough white to form a robin's egg blue and used this to paint the boots. I used a slightly darker shade of the same color to shade the inside of the boots and a dark blue wash to bring out the seem running down the center of the boot. The kit comes with a printed Soviet flag and two shoulder patches (one is a spare). While both are completely adequate, I wanted to experiment a little and try something I hadn't done before. I wanted a noticeable "fabric" look to my Soviet flag. I scanned the image from the kit into my computer and then printed it out on paper-backed fabric (a leftover from my daughter's Barbie Fashion Designer Kit). I then cut out the two sides of the flag as one piece, removed the paper backing, smeared white glue on the inside face, and pressed them together. I wanted that "wrinkled" look that is so noticeable in the photos of the US flag on the moon, so I crumpled the red banner as the glue dried until it took on few wrinkles and then glued it directly to the steel wire that comes with the kit. Finally, I sprayed the flag assembly with a gloss overcoat. The result was about what I had hoped for, although the yellow hammer-and-sickle on the flag isn't quite as vibrant as I wanted and had to be retouched with a bit of Tamiya Yellow.

I finished the base by airbrushing it with a dark gray and then, while the paint was still wet, dusting it liberally with Micro Balloons (a white powder comprised of tiny glass balloons and is normally used as a filler to lighten epoxy glue -- don't breath the dust, by the way). After this had dried I sprayed it with Testors Dullcoat and hit it with more Micro Balloons. I repeated this until I was happy with the texture of the base. I glued the figure to the base with CA Zap-a-Gap. This is a lot easier if you apply a bit of white glue to where the feet will be on the base before painting (same goes for the bottom of the feet of the figure, but this is usually the case if you temporarily glued the figure for painting). The white glue can be pried off easily, exposing raw, clean resin for the CA glue to adhere to. One more light coat of Testors Dullcoat over the entire model, and it is ready for the display shelf. Overall this is an excellent kit and a very interesting bit of "alternate history." Highly recommended!




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